Horn - 12V Momentary/Off Rocker Switch Marine Grade

Almost any 12V accessory on your UTV: light bars, pod lights, rock lights, lighted whips, cooling fans, pumps, air compressors, stereos and radios. Off-roaders also use this Carling style rocker, often called an ARB switch, for lockers and compressors. One On/Off switch runs one accessory. Each switch is rated for 20 amps at 12V, so for anything that draws more than that, wire it through a relay.

These switches use the standard Carling Contura II size and snap into a 1.43" x 0.84" (36.4mm x 21.3mm) opening. That is the auxiliary switch opening found in many UTV dashboards, including Polaris RZR, Can-Am Maverick, Kawasaki KRX and Honda Talon models, and in most aftermarket switch panels. No open switch spot in your dash? See our custom billet dash switch panels for the RZR XP 1000 and other models.

It depends on what you're powering:

• On/Off: one accessory that stays on until you switch it off, like a light bar, whips or a fan.
• On/Off/On: two accessories from one switch, one in each direction, with off in the middle.
• Off/On/On: two circuits in steps. First click turns on one, second click turns on both, like running pod lights alone or pod lights plus a light bar.
• Momentary: powers only while you hold it, then springs back. Use it for a horn, or the On/Off/On momentary for something with two directions, like a winch in and out.

Yes. They are marine grade and rated IP66, which means dust-tight and sealed against heavy spray, rain, mud and a pressure-washer rinse. They are built for the sand, water and dirt a UTV, Jeep or boat sees. IP66 is not a submersion rating, so they aren't meant to sit underwater.

Not for most accessories. Each switch is rated for 20 amps at 12V (10 amps at 24V), so whips, rock lights, pod lights and pumps can be wired straight through the switch. A relay is for high current accessories, mostly big lights like light bars: the switch triggers the relay, and the heavy current goes from the battery to the light without passing through the switch. A cooling fan needs a relay too, usually one rated 40 amps or more. Anything that draws more than 20 amps must use one. Always fuse the power wire within 6 to 8 inches of the source, with or without a relay.

Find your switch in the pinout above, then follow the same basics on every install:

• Fuse the power wire within 6 to 8 inches of the power source.
• Use the right wire gauge for the load. Size it for the accessory's amp draw and the length of the run.
• Run the ground back to the battery. Body and frame grounds on a UTV aren't reliable.
• Take power from a switched source for most accessories, so the backlights go off with the key instead of glowing around the clock.
• Use .250" female spade connectors, crimped tight so they can't pull off.
• Route the wires away from heat, sharp edges and moving parts, and tie them down so nothing chafes through.
• Use a relay for high current accessories, mostly big lights like light bars, and for cooling fans. Feed the relay from the battery or a power distribution block and let the switch trigger it, so the heavy current never runs through the switch.

Check these first:

• Pin 7 must go to ground. The LEDs can't light without it.
• Pin 8 needs 12V. On 4 pin and 6 pin switches it feeds the lower LED. Without it, only the upper LED lights, and only while the switch is on.
• Power and ground can't be swapped. LEDs only work one way round.

On 3 pin and 7 pin switches there is no pin 8, so the LEDs light only while the switch is on. That's normal.